Nappturology 101

Trauma to Hair Follicles: Why do some of us lose it?

Author: Leslie Correa is a nationally renowned hair designer and hair chemical specialist, (Color, Perms, Relaxers) he has devoted the past 24 years perfecting his craft in the art of hair design. He has devoted his career to knowing how to refine the best qualities of your hair and bringing out its natural beauty.
Source: Beauty Magazine

Types of hair loss

  • Trauma: Burns and Accidents
    Trauma to hair follicles can result in permanent hair loss. Thermal and chemical burns for example, can kill hair follicles and result in hair loss.
  • Normal Shedding:
    During the resting stage of the cycle of hair growth, the hair follicle relaxes its hold on the hair shaft bulb, and the bulb of the hair shaft moves closer to the surface of the skin. Over time, normal hair movement and shampooing cause the hair shaft to loosen further. Eventually the hair is shed. Shedding hairs is normal. On average we shed about 50-100 hairs each day (we also grow about 50-100 new hairs each day).
  • Telogen Effluvium:
    Telogen effluvium is when a sudden severe stress causes noticeable shedding of hair after the stressful event. The hair loss is always delayed, usually 3-4 months after and sometimes 5 or 6 months after the stressful event. The event can be a physical stress such as childbirth, a heart attack, a severe illness with a high fever, sudden weight changes, or a major surgical procedure. Sudden severe emotional stress can also trigger telogen effluvium, including the death of a loved one, a divorce, or a job termination.
  • Anagen Effluvium:
    Anagen effluvium is the sudden loss of hair as a result of powerful chemicals or radiation suddenly halting the hair growth cycle. There is no 3-4 month transition to a resting stage, as with telogen effluvium. Anagen effluvium is most commonly experienced after chemotherapy and radiation therapy treatment for cancer. Within just 1-3 weeks after treatment, some or all of a patient’s hair falls out, often in uneven patches.
  • Alopecia Areata, Totalis, Universalis:
    It is estimated that approximately 2.5 million men, women, and children in the U.S. have some degree of alopecia areata. There are three basic types of alopecia areata:

    • Alopecia Areata: small, smooth circular areas of hair loss affecting less than 50% of the scalp.
    • Alopecia Totalis: more than 50% hair loss on the scalp.
    • Alopecia Universalis: complete hair loss affecting the scalp as well as the face and body. Although the cause is not yet clearly known, researchers feel alopecia areata is an autoimmune condition. The National Alopecia Areata Foundation points out that other than the hair and occasionally the nails; no other part of the body is affected. For more information http://www.alopeciaareata.com/default2.asp
  • Androgenetic alopecia:
    This is the most common type of hair loss, eventually affecting about half of all men or 75 million (male-pattern baldness) and 10 to 20% of women 30 million (female-pattern baldness). A slightly elevated level of the male hormone dihydrotestosterone probably plays a major role, along with genetic factors. The hair loss can begin at any age, even during the teenage years.
  • Traction Alopecia:
    Traction alopecia occurs when hairs are constantly being pulled upon, usually by tightly braided hairstyles, elastic bands holding hairs together and hair extensions. This type of styling traumatizes the hair follicles, and the hairs fall out before the end of their growth period Permanent hair loss can result if the new hairs that grow out are subjected to more pulling, although this usually requires constant pulling over many hair growth cycles. Repeatedly pulling out a hair from a follicle will eventually result in finer hair growing back, and eventually no new hair growth. The follicle will simply quit growing new hairs.
    Various hair removal methods that involve pulling out hairs take advantage of traction alopecia, including waxing, depilatory machines, and plucking hairs out with tweezers. After hairs are pulled, the follicle takes 3-4 months to recover, and during this time the unwanted hairs are gone. Repeating the procedure on the new hairs that grow out will result in finer hairs growing back and eventually will result in permanent hair loss.
  • Trichotillomania:
    Pulling hair, lashes or brows is a far more common problem than you believe. It is believed that around 2% of the population pull or pluck hairs from their scalp, brows or lashes, or even other parts of the body. Trich is considered an Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD) and is an anxiety disorder. Not a disease. This can be cured through care counseling to reverse the habit. I once heard it being described as though it were a fly on your lip. If a fly landed on your lip, the first thing you would try to do would be to swat it off. That’s what Trichotillomania is like. It’s a reflex, not a disease.
  • Hair Shaft Breakage:
    Broken hair shafts are a type of hair loss caused by damage to the hair itself, (the “hair shaft”). Improper or excessive hair styling, aggressive grooming techniques, and exposure to too much swimming pool chlorine and sunlight are common causes of hair shaft breakage. Rough treatment of the hair can result in hair loss. Hair styling chemicals can damage hair shafts if used incorrectly. Hair dyes, colorings, bleaches, relaxers (straighteners), permanent wave solutions are all generally safe for hair when used as directed. Incorrect use includes application of these products too frequently, and leaving the solutions on the hair or scalp too long. This is why it is important to make sure the stylist performing Thermal Reconditioning on your hair is an experienced stylist who is very familiar with the chemicals to be applied on your hair.

    (Here is where I step in to interject a contrary opinion. Athough I’m no chemist, it’s a known fact that permanent hair dyes and coloring have to raise the cuticles and deposit color into the cortex. In the case of bleaches, the chemicals actually raise the cuticle, take the color out of the hair shaft. If you’re going blond that’s it. If you’re going to a lighter different color, then that new color has to be deposited into your hair shaft. The stripping of or depositing color, whatever the case may be, is damaging and drying. In the case of color deposits, they can make the hair shaft swell, leaving nappy hair (all hair really) even more susceptible to dryness. And we all know that relaxers destroy the original chemical bonds that make your hair nappy. They make your hair more prone to being dry and brittle, and therfore weaker, leaving much more prone to damage and breakage. Over time, many people have experienced hair loss from using these chemicals whether applied correctly or not.)

    Hair styling often involves the use of heat on the hair shaft. Excessive heat from curling irons and blow dryers can cause hair shafts to become weak and brittle and prone to breakage. A heat protector will only protect the hair but not the scalp.

    Aggressive grooming and personal hygiene such as vigorous shampooing, scalp massage, and rough towel drying of the hair can break hair shafts. Combing long wet hair with fine-toothed combs can cause shaft breakage. Excessive shampooing can result in dry, brittle hair that is prone to breakage. Use a paddle brush to minimize breakage of hair.Repeated exposure to both swimming pool chlorine and sunlight will weaken hair shafts. Covering your hair with a swimming cap is a good way to avoid chlorine in pools, and some shampoo and conditioner products are designed specifically to neutralize the effects of swimming pool chlorine. Covering your hair with a hat or towel when in the sun helps to avoid exposure to excessive sunlight.

14 Comments

14 responses so far ↓

  • Ellen // May 20, 2008 at 12:13 pm | Reply

    I don’t have a problem with breakage but am experiencing clumps of hair in the front of my scalp that simply don’t grow and as time goes by more and more of the hair is only about 1.5 – 3 inches long. I went to a hair specialist and he said it probably was because my ovaries shut down due to chemo therapy before menopause, some years ago. Anyway, I have no hopes of growning this hair, but I was wondering if I could have some hair woven into the short strands by some method.

  • nappyme // May 21, 2008 at 11:28 am | Reply

    Hi Ellen,
    Sorry to hear about your hair. Yes, if permies can weave in hair, I’m sure a good beautician could figure out a way to weave in some kinky, textured hair.

    You’ll just have to call and ask around and then go in for consultation. Be careful because you wouldn’t want the weave to break off your already fragile hair in that area. So you’ll have to make sure to take extra good care of your hair underneath the weave.

    Good luck, take care and God bless,
    ~Nappyme

  • Tish // June 10, 2008 at 11:56 am | Reply

    Hello. I have no idea what’s going on with my hair. Some background~ I’m 51 yo and post menopausal. My hair has been completely natural for 3 years and is 6 to 10 inches long. Six months ago, my hair began shedding and breaking like crazy. I used to be able to finger comb my hair, but the shed hair wraps around my strands and creates knots. I am very gentle with my hair and use detanglers or conditioner before combing. I mostly wear my hair in 2 strand twists. My hair doesn’t look healthy to me anymore. Each twist has MANY hairs sticking out along the length. A lady I was talking with told me it was new growth. I’m not sure about that.

  • nappyme // June 10, 2008 at 6:51 pm | Reply

    Hi Tish and welcome to NPP101.

    I’m sorry for what you’re experiencing with your hair. I want to make sure that you understand the difference between breaking and shedding. Breaking occurs when your hair snaps in the middle of the hair shaft and shedding occurs when your hair is falling out of the scalp with what appears to be a little white bulb.

    Most folks shed between 50 to 100 hair per day so just know that if you don’t comb or brush for long periods of time, when you do finally get around to it, you can appear to be losing an alarming amount of hair. Seasonal fluxuations can make some people shed more than what appears to be normal, with November being a month where some can experience more shedding that what seems normal for them.

    Having said that, you really need to determine if you’re experiencing excess shedding or breaking. If you’re shedding more than you should, then you’ll eventually start noticing a change in density as your hair grows out of the scalp. In other words, you may be experiencing some type of thinning or balding.

    If you’re experiencing excess breakage, you won’t see a change in growth density, but your hair throughout it’s length with appear to be thin and whispy and you’ll see hairs of different lengths.

    If you’re noticing thinning and balding, you need to go to a dermatologist to get to help you find out why this is occuring.

    If you’re primarily experiencing breakage, then you need to re-examine your hair care practices.
    Are you over styling your hair? Keeping it properly moisturizing perhaps? Tearing your hair out with combs and brushes? Are you styling to tightly…experiencing stress breakage along your parts?

    These are all some things to consider.

    You say you’re post menopausal. Are you taking some medications that could be causing your hair to become dry and brittle? Medications can definitely affect your hair adversely sometimes so it might be a good idea to check with your doctor.

    I certainly don’t have all the answers, however, I hope I’ve given you a starting point to help you try to get a handle on what’s going on with your hair.

    You take care, good luck and keep me updated.

    God Bless,
    ~Nappyme

  • Tish // June 10, 2008 at 8:03 pm | Reply

    Hi Nappyme! Thanks so much for the welcome and your prompt response!

    I only comb my hair when it’s time to detangle, wash and deep condition, that’s usually every 2 to 3 weeks in the winter with co washes once a week. During the summer months, I wash my hair weekly. What is happening to my hair is brand new to me.

    The amount of shedding I’ve had is alarming, but I understand that it’s normal since I don’t comb through my hair on a daily basis. I absolutely have hairs of different lengths throughout my hair, that’s why my twists look so bad now. So bad it’s embarassing.

    My hair can always use more moisture. The other suggested problems you listed doesn’t apply to me. If I can get a picture close up of my hair, I’ll post a link for you. I’ve never experienced or seen anything like it.

    If I can’t find a solution, there’s always scissors! LOL

  • laurie // July 18, 2008 at 12:16 am | Reply

    I have been enjoying the discussions on dry hair and losing our hair. I have hair that just doesn’t grow. The only time I achieved significant hair growth was when I had a “curl”. My hair grew like crazy! Since then I haven’t had the same success. I also have extreme hair loss and dryness in the winter. As soon as I turn on the heat I lose my hair! It is a never ending cycle. I have noticed that my hair would grow in the summer. I used to think that I was nuts, because I always equated summer with heat and heat is bad for your hair. I was glad to read that I wasn’t nuts! Lol. After reading your discusions I am going o break down and buy some curl activator moisterizer, the glycerine is my hair’s best friend. I would like an idea of a hair product for the winter. I have a cabinet full of products and I am still bald as an eagle, LOL. Please help.

  • kim gardner // August 3, 2008 at 5:12 pm | Reply

    This is just to thank you for a great Website. I am a lock head and found the information very helpful.

  • Helen H Jones // October 17, 2008 at 3:37 pm | Reply

    I notice my hair shedding like your, with hair all entwining and tangling in double twists. So I started just using cold water only. And also brewing sage and rosemary herbs. All this is to keep they pores in my scalp tight. Because I read somewhere that using water that is too hot makes it easier for hair to slip out of folicle prematurely. Well, I did not want to take a chance with warm water, since in Louisiana the weather is hot and humid. It is a recipe for enarged pores. And the brewed herb I keep refriderated, and pour some in a 4 oz spritz bottle that I keep in the refriderator also. Then spritz my scalp 1-2 times a day, 4-7 times a week.
    My hair feels stronger, and the symtoms went away in two weeks.

  • MDR // February 16, 2009 at 8:24 am | Reply

    I hope you can help me. I am a female and am 29 yars old.
    I recently had my hair pulled out of my head from the root at the side of my head. I am really nervous about it not ever going back.
    Will my hair ever grow back?

  • nappyme // February 16, 2009 at 11:04 am | Reply

    MDR,
    My best guess is that is SHOULD. That is unless, you’ve experienced some type of traumatic damage to to follicles AND/OR some scaring to your scalp.

    If you’re really concerned, you should go see a dermatologist so you can get an expert medical opinion.

    Take care,
    ~Nappyme

  • swilli31 // June 29, 2009 at 9:29 pm | Reply

    Every since I can remember, I frequently get sores at the crown of my head. I have a pretty good hair texture and went natural about 10.5 months ago to a short curly style. I use a moisturizer and liquid silkeing gel daily and finger comb my hair culy hair. Can the sores be the result of over use of the products possibly blocking my pores? I remember my mother using a “black tar soap” to rid me of these sores. Any suggestions as to what may be causing these sores? I developed these sores when my hair was hot combed, permed, and now they are back with my natural hair. No heat products have touched my hair in the last 10.5 months. Thanks !

    • nappyme // June 30, 2009 at 7:41 am | Reply

      swilli31 welcome to NPP101. Congrats on your decision to go natural, however, I am sorry to hear about your scalp woes. I’ve never heard of such. All I can do is suggest that you go see a dermatologist. If you’re getting sores in your scalp no matter what, there may be something going on that is perhaps unrelated to your choice of how you wear your hair.

      Take care and God bless,
      ~Nappyme

  • Laura // November 9, 2009 at 7:35 pm | Reply

    I just wanted to know if Glycerin truly grows hair. A friend of mine said that she put glycerin on her daughters bald spot and it eventually grew her hair back. Is this true? I have just recently developed a small patch of missing hair. I’m only 21, I need help!

    • nappyme // November 10, 2009 at 8:37 am | Reply

      Hi Laura,
      To my knowledge glycerin has no properties that makes hair grow. Never heard of that. The hair was likely grow back anyway and the glycerin kept it moisturized as it grew back in.

      If you have a missing patch of hair…go see a doctor. You may have a medical condition of some sort that needs to be treated by a medical professional.

      Good luck!

Leave a Comment